High performing dry yeast as reliable to the home brewer as those
used by professional brewers. Fermentis dry yeasts offer a true
alternative to liquid yeast as the need for expensive shipping and
packaging has been replaced by a nitrogen flushed sachet with a two
year shelf life.
Safbrew WB06: The yeast produces subtle ester and phenol flavor
notes typical of wheat beers. Sedimentation: low. Final gravity:
high.
Safbrew T58: Known for its high ester, spicy and peppery flavor
profile, able to tolerate high alcohol conditions (up to 11.5%
abv).
Safbrew S33: A robust ale yeast able to tolerate high alcohol
conditions (up to 11.5% abv). Used to produce a wide range of beer
styles including Belgian wheat and Trappist beers.
Safale S04: A well known English ale strain noted for its fast
fermentation and rapid settling. Used in the production of a wide
range of ales including English ale styles.
Safale US05: American ale yeast producing well balanced beers with
a very clear crisp end palate. Sedimentation: medium. Final
gravity: low to medium.
Saflager S23: Originating from the famous VLB institute in Germany,
true lager yeast capable of producing continental lagers with a
fruity, estery note.
Saflager W34/70: The famous yeast strain from Weihenstephan in
Germany for lager brewing. Sedimentation: high. Final gravity:
medium.
CUSTOMER QUESTIONS
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10/20/2008 -- I made a batch of beer using Muntons American Style Light Beer. I put the packet of yeast on top, let it sit for ten
minutes and stired it in.It has been 17hrs later and no bubbles or fermentation has started.What to do now?
Response From The Home Brew Store Dot Com: When you have yeast that doesn't start within 24 hours of pitching, it could be any of several problems. The yeast may have been too old. The temperature of the wort may have been too hot. There may not have been sufficient nutrients or sugars for the yeast to start. The best fix is to get a fresh yeast packet, and start it in a pint of sugar water at a temperature between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Add a teaspoon of yeast nutrient, and let the mixture sit in a covered jar overnight. You should see foam on top the next morning, indicating active yeast. At this point you can add it to the wort and be relatively sure it will show activity in the wort within 12 to 24 hours. If after 24 hours there is not activity, then you may have an unintentional ingredient (such as cleanser or disinfectant) in the wort that is killing the yeast.
5/28/2007 -- my main problem is with the yeast,sometimes it works really fast other times it seems really slow.how can i be sure that it works.
Response From The Home Brew Store Dot Com: Yeast works differently based on a number of factors - the temperature of the brew, the age of the yeast, whether starter is used, what type of brew it is, etc.
The best way to ensure a quick start and a healthy ferment cycle is to build a yeast starter the day prior to brewing. Sterilize a quart jar. Make up a pint of solution using boiled water, sugar or honey (about 2 Tbsp), yeast nutrient and yeast energizer (about a 1/4 tsp of each). Dissolve everything in the water and wait for it to cool to room temperature. Add the yeast, and cover the jar with a piece of plastic food wrap - don't seal the jar, as you will want the gasses to escape. You should see fermentation within an hour or so, with foaming lasting about 4 to 6 hours. When the foaming subsides, add a touch more sugar/honey. Keep doing this until you are ready to pitch the yeast into your brew. Just prior to pitching, stir the starter vigorously to get the yeast bed swirled up into solution. This will give you a faster start.
To ensure a steady fermentation, constant temperature around 70-75 degrees is best (except for lagers). I recommend the Homebrew Heatpad, winter or summer, for a constant temperature.
5/5/2006 -- I have ordered the John Bull Master class IPA. I was not sure if yeast was included so I ordered the 15gm Coopers Ale yeast. Hindsight is always 20/20, should have asked before I ordered the Coopers yeast, but does John Bull come with yeast?
Response From The Home Brew Store Dot Com: Yes, all the kits come with yeast. However, we always recommend buying fresh yeast to use with the canned kits. Some kits include generic yeast, for which no one can judge the quality. Even if the yeast included is a brand name, the kits have not been refrigerated, and the shelf life of the yeast packets is always much less than the shelf life of the malt itself. For that reason, it's better to order the fresh yeast, as you've done. Since we build the boxed kits "to order", the yeast in the boxed kits is always fresh.
4/26/2005 -- Are the grains already ground up when I get them? How is the yeast packaged so it will be fresh on arrival?
Response From The Home Brew Store Dot Com: We do offer cracking of the grains as a free service. When you check out, there is a "customer comments" section that you can add any special requests to. Just write in that you want your grains cracked, and we will do so before sealing the bag.
The dry yeasts are all factory packaged, and we maintain them in a refrigerator until shipping. The liquid yeasts are ordered directly from the manufacturer on a "just in time" basis and rotated to ensure that we maintain only those tubes that are within the manufacturer's "viable" window. When we ship the liquid yeast, they are packed with disposable freezer packs.
7/29/2004 -- At what temperature should I store my wine yeast?
Response From The Home Brew Store Dot Com: Refrigerated, the yeast should last for 6 months to a year. I've had yeast still viable more than 2 years with refrigeration. I recommend a temperature range between 35 and 45 degress Fahrenheit.
7/29/2004 -- Can the yeast work alone with the grape juice? Without adding chemicals and tablets?
Response From The Home Brew Store Dot Com: Yes, yeast will work fine when introduced to sugars present in fruit juice. Campden tablets are used to kill off wild yeasts in fruit prior to introducing the cultured yeast. Other chemicals (such as nutrients or energizers) are generally added to accelerate cultured yeast activity, and may be required by specific recipes or added at the whim of the brewer.
7/16/2003 -- How much yeast energizer do you add to 5 gallons of Rhubarb-Strawberry juice to start fermentation?
Response From The Home Brew Store Dot Com: First of all, remember that yeast energizer is not necessarily required to start a fermentation. The purpose of yeast energizer is both to help isolate toxins in the must that would otherwise slow down fermentation, and to help get fermentation started more quickly in order to overcome the ability of any wild yeasts or bacteria that may otherwise have a chance to settle in. This second reason is particularly important when working with fresh fruit rather than canned juices. Normally with juices, I won't use any. Rhubarb is a little different, since it's a vegetable (high fiber, low sugar.) The characteristics of a vegetable will serve to slow fermentation. If the recipe you're using doesn't specify, I usually recommend starting out with about 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon... so, about 2 teaspoons for a 5 gallon batch - maybe 2-1/2 depending on the percentage of rhubarb to strawberry.
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