Once again the El Novillero Chardonnay is the star of the show. This tiny vineyard at the crest of the hill that marks the western boundary of the Carneros appellation has it all: perfect elevation, soil that is rocky and well-drained, southeast exposure, and proximity to the temperature moderating influence of the San Francisco Bay. The total production is never large but the character of the wine is enormous. Never has it been better than in 2007. Winemakers are always looking for benchmarks against which to compare their wines. In my work with Kermit Lynch, I have the opportunity to taste many of the most respected bottlings of white Burgundy. I’m comfortable including this wine in a tasting with any of them. The aroma is a combination of brioche and hazelnut. The texture is broad and rich. It’s mineral-laden with layers of exotic tropical fruit. The zesty acidity gives it a near-perfect finish.
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