2007 BIEN NACIDO Chardonnay -- THE OJAI VINEYARD Shopping Cart
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-- 2007 BIEN NACIDO Chardonnay
Santa MariaValley
I’ve been amused seeing the development in California of what is called un-oaked
chardonnay. It’s a natural reaction to the lavishly oaked, cloyingly rich
chardonnays from Napa.
How winemakers got so far off track producing ever oakier, more ponderous wines—while
thinking they were making the ultimate expression of chardonnay--is beyond me. Though I have my quibbles about the results of
fermenting and aging in tanks, some special wines are made that way, and it is surely
is a step in the right direction. What the un-oaked advocates have right is
that too much new oak destroys what is distinctive about chardonnay.
Where I diverge from tank-fermenting advocates is in my love
of what fermenting and aging in older barrels can bring out in wine. Some
oxidation takes place, allowing the flavors to mature and giving richness to an
otherwise lean structure. Chardonnay fermented in tank can be successful if the
fruit is particularly expressive, but my favorite examples are almost always
aged in older wood.
For years we produced our Bien Nacido chardonnay by
fermenting and aging it in oak barrels, one third of them new. While that gave
the wine a rich toasty character, we found that the new oak made it heavier and
less friendly with food--and dominated over the considerable charms that the
vineyard possessed. Since 2000, our Bien Nacido has been our argument in favor
of using only older barrels in the production of chardonnay. At first, some
people couldn’t understand what was so great about a wine with some restraint,
but these days people are embracing the idea that wine is not a meal in itself but
a beautiful synergistic accompaniment to food.
In 2007 the vines were drought stressed and yielded a
very small crop, giving us a wine that is expressive and flavorful. While its
youthful acidity stands out at the moment, this wine is already a great match
with rich flavored foods.