
I stumbled upon Phillips Hill about six months ago, just by chance, after a family lunch at Libby's. I couldn't even talk my wife into going in - she took our daughter into Lemon's Market and left me to the delightful pleasure of discovering a new up-and-coming producer. Watch these guys - they'll be hitting the charts next to Breggo and Toulouse and Black Kite and Copain and Anthill Farms and the rest of the Anderson Valley elite.
Tasting Notes
The Oppenlander Vineyard
Had we found the Oppenlander Vineyard, we'd have seen it entering its tenth year, as it was in 1998 and 1999 that the Shandel family planted their 18 acre vineyard to various Pinot Noir clones (Pommard, Martini, 114, 115, 667, all self-rooted). It is planted near their residence in a large opening in the redwood and fir forest - and I don't need to remind you of the affect on quality that ensues when an owner lives close to the vines. Like the prima donna's they are, pinot vines thrive on such close attention. This vineyard is now in full production, and is a source for truly exceptional fruit.
The family named the vineyard “Oppenlander” after their ancestors, homesteaders who settled 640 acres in the 1860s, back when it was in the interest of our nation to grant land to anyone who would manage it.
Winemaking Details Cheers!
Though the grapes for this wine are from a vineyard in the small town of Comptche (population 368!), I discovered the wine at Phillips Hill's new tasting room in Philo. Compared to Comptche, Philo is a booming metropolis - home to 1,100 people, Lemon's Market (Anderson Valley's primary source for groceries, meat and gossip) and the outstanding Libby's Mexican Restaurant. And now too, the Phillips Hill tasting room.
This wine is on the lighter side, an increasingly common style in the Anderson Valley. Look for tart red cherries and pomegranate that segues into a broader mid-palate and on into a long finish with echoes of warm leather and sweet spices. Let this wine open up for an hour or more before serving and you'll be well rewarded for your patience. Speaking of which, this wine will evolve nicely for 5-6 years in your cellar.
After selecting this wine for our club shipment, I convinced my family to join me for a drive through Comptche in search of this vineyard. We found the little hamlet and even saw vineyards, though none bore any sign of ownership. Still, our trip made it evident that this ridge-top location assures great sun exposure, cooler temperatures (about 10 as-the-crow-flies miles from the very cool Mendocino coast) and gave ample evidence as to why the Comptche Ridge is the latest outstanding Pinot region to emerge from Mendocino County.
Dave the Wine Merchant
Dave@SidewaysWineClub.com
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