
The Region - Northern Rhone
This is a legendary wine region located south of Burgundy and Beaujolais. Specifically, the village of Condrieu, which is world famous for its white wines from the Viognier grape. Condrieu is the spiritual home of Viognier, and produces (arguably) the world's best versions of this wine.
Adjacent to Cote Rotie, the vineyards of Condrieu are almost as prestigious, with only 100 hectare planted to vines, with 45% of those going into the wines of Guigal. Ironically, just one short lifetime ago, Viognier had almost died out in France, and a handful of visionary producers in Condrieu were all that came between obscurity and today's considerable fame. In 1965 only 8 hectares were planted and the wines were feeble at best.
The Grape - Viognier
Happily, this beautifully aromatic white wine has become increasingly popular over the last 15 years or so. Sadly, good examples are still relatively scarce, as new plantings have lagged demand. It can vary in style, from lightly perfumy to highly alcoholic, but is always identifiable through its nose of peach-and-apricot floating on top of waves of honeysuckle. France's Rhone Valley (and specifically Condrieu) is often thought to be the best spot in the world for Viognier.
The Winemaker Yves and Mathilde Gangloff
I don't know whether Yves' long, curly hair inspired Jim Clendenen's (owner/Winemaker at California's Au Bon Climat) aging rock star look, or whether it was the other way round, or if they both simply yearn for the adoration of groupies from days gone by. Wherever the truth is found, they both redefine the typical look of the successful winemaker.
Yves is a small producer of ultra-premium wines. He has likely passed the midpoint in his career, despite his youthful appearance. He gathered experience (as so many great producers do) working in the vineyards before producing his own wines. From 1980 - 1987 Gangloff toiled in the vineyards of Delas, using the opportunity to become familiar with the vineyards and micro-climates of Côte-Rôtie. As money and opportunity allowed, he pieced together his own patchwork quilt of vineyards.
A native of Alsace, which is no stranger to great white wines, Gangloff was unexpectedly thrust into the producer's role when the négociant who had been buying his grapes suddenly backed out just before the 1987 harvest. What a serendipity this was for the wine world.
Gangloff is the very definition of a boutique producer (or micro-domaine, as the French call it), with little more than 5 acres of vineyards in his Domaine (1.7 ha in Condrieu and 2.4 ha in Cote Rotie). His wines are well worth the hunt required to find them!
And Finally, The Wine
In Condrieu, the maximum yield is a low 30 hl/ha, assuring the rich character for which a Condrieu is known. Gangloff vinifies his Condrieu using the method common to the area - fermenting in oak, about one-third of which is new, the remaining 2/3 consisting of 1-3-year-old barrels. It is also made sur lie (aging on the spent yeast cells to add softness) and uses bâtonnage (stirring of the lees) - a labor-intensive process that assures , and is bottled after one year. The wine is made in a lush, bold style, with fig and papaya fruit flavors." To that I would add one of the best descriptors I've heard for Viognier - graham cracker - in addition to the classic peach/apricot and floral descriptors so often the marker of this varietal. But here, they are heavier, richer, more honied. Every great cellar include a case of this wine.
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